Práticas comunicacionais no varejo de moda: uma análise do potencial estabelecimento de identidade em casos de apropriação do luxo pelo popular

Abstract

The present dissertation analyzes the communicational practices present in fashion retail chains that, apparently, are inspired by conceptual style references presented by luxury brands in fashion weeks to develop commercial collections. This process of inspiration is analyzed according to the perspective of appropriation (Roger Chartier), that, according to, there would be an inherent adaptation process, thus generating a new product. We suggest as hypothesis that in this mechanism of appropriation is accepted a movement of adhesion of new tendencies proposed with the intention of establishing identity through the use of clothes, in order to constitute membership with groups represented by certain clothing. For this, we use as theoretical reference, concepts of material culture (Daniel Miller) focusing on the importance of consumption and materialities to understand the dimensions of social life; the strategic and tactical relations (Michel de Certeau) existing in the idealization of fashion and adaptation to the appropriation of the conduct of what is fashion; the western conception of fashion (Gilles Lipovetsky) to understand the model structured in the mid-nineteenth century wich constituted the model in activity; and the conception of identity in postmodernity (Stuart Hall), in an analisys of how the transformations promoted at the end of the twentieth century shook the perspective of unified identity by making the notion of identity multiplicity flourish. As a method of analysis, we delimit between what we understand as 'luxury' and 'popular', and then we elaborate a survey to define which luxury brands can be analyzed: we designate a brand in the category 'luxury' (Chanel), and two retail chains in the 'popular' category (Zara and Renner). As a data collection tool, the FFW portal, the UseFashion platform and the online sales sites of the two popular brands are used. The survey is organized in tables of the software Microsoft Excel and in the sequence three analysis (in four stages) are elaborated trying to defend to what extent the hypothesis raised can be observed in the available content of the collections of the labels in the season Spring/Summer 2017.